How to Tell If Dogs Are Playing or Fighting
Playmates Rarely Injure Each Other Seriously
Features of a Fun Play Session
Distinguishing between dogs that are playing and dogs that are fighting may be quite challenging, especially for novice dog owners. Perhaps, the main issue derives from the fact that dog play often focuses on mimicking postures and vocalizations often used in dog fights. Indeed, there are many playful acts of dominance/submission that can be incorporated into play and observed by attentive owners.
The main difference, therefore, between a play session and a fight derives from its overall level of intensity. Many dogs engage in giving off "meta-signals" which denote that anything that follows is not to be taken seriously. A play bow is a great example of a meta-signal used for this purpose.
Play sessions among dogs are often dramatic, rough exhibitions of growling, running, biting and posturing. Dogs often resort to playful displays of rough body postures such as placing a head or paw on the other dog's shoulders or even pinning him down. A good dose of prey drive then may also kick in, as the dogs' chase each other or bite each other's legs as they move to run. This all takes place with excited sharp barks, growls and playful nips to neck, ears, tails, and legs.
A typical play session may be initiated by a posture known as the ''play bow''. One dog will crouch down keeping its forelimbs very low and its rump high in the air with the tail wagging in anticipation. The other dog will respond positively by running towards the dog displaying the play bow and an exciting play session takes place.
During play sessions, dogs will also engage into some misleading postures such as rolling belly up in a fake surrender or pretending to innocently sniff the ground in a fake calming signal. The play game choreography contains many features such as self-handicaps, metasignals, and purposeful pauses.
An Insight Into a Fight in Progress
As mentioned earlier, the main difference between fight and play resides in the intensity level. Play involves inhibited bites or better nips that generally do not break the skin nor cause pain. These play bites stem back to when the dogs were puppies and learned "bite inhibition." Indeed, when pups are still in the litter, they learn fast that a too-hard bite may cause a sharp yelp in their littermate with a fast withdrawal from the game. The puppy therefore quickly learns that next time, he should be ''softer-mouthed'' in order to play.
Dogs that are removed too soon from their litter may have failed to incorporate this very important lesson. These young dogs may play rough, causing pain when they playfully bite their owners or other dogs. However, they can be quickly taught that this is not acceptable behavior by using the same method its litter mates should have used: a sharp "ouch" followed by an abrupt "game over." The dog will quickly learn its lesson.
A dog fight often causes significant pain and the bites will break the skin and often draw blood. These fights are often challenging to break apart, with a high risk for re-directed aggression towards the people trying to separate them. Learn the proper way to stop dogs from fighting.
Vocalizations are much more intense, there may be deep growling accompanied by snarling and teeth showing. Hackles (the hair on the dog's neck and shoulder) may be raised. Yelps of pain may be sharp, even though some dogs may be so into the fight that they may not show pain even though the injuries are evident.
While the difference between a play session and a fight may be easy to recognize with some knowledge about canine body language, one must always consider that sometimes even a play session may escalate in intensity and develop into a full flight. Any escalation in a play session should be therefore interrupted safely by distracting the dogs before it is too late.
Dog parks are notorious places for dog fights to take place and this often is attributed to the fact that dog owners are often too distracted by talking to other dog owners or reading a book. This can result in less attention being paid to their dog's interaction with other dogs. Dogs may give many dog stress signals before getting into a fight.
Often, dog parks also feature dogs with poor manners, rude behaviors, and underdeveloped social skills, which can create the ideal grounds for a fight to occur. Sometimes, dog owners will point their finger to the ''bully breeds'' when they are totally unaware that their ''friendly labrador'' was the one that really provoked and initiated everything. A careful eye on a dog's behaviors and its interactions with other dogs is therefore a must. One second of distraction may turn a playful game into a bloody mess.
Is it Play or Not?
During play, it may appear that one dogs is acting as the aggressor and the other as the "victim." Is the vicitm having fun or is she being intimidated? An easy way to determine this is to restrain the" aggressor" and watch what the other dog does. If the "victim" dogs comes back to try to initiate play again, then chances are it was just play and both dogs were having fun.
3 Ways to Interrupt Rough Play in Dogs
While dog play may look rough, in most cases, both dogs are having fun and there is no need to interrupt as long as the dog are taking brief breaks and the body language is loose. However, a time may come where you may want to interrupt play before it escalates. It's always better to interrupt play before it gets rough rather than afterward when dogs are too focused on each other and aroused. Here are a few ways to interrupt rough play in dogs.
1) Train an Interrupter Cue
Train your dogs to respond to an interrupter cue that tells them to rush towards you for a treat. I like to personally use a whistle (but other options are verbal cues such as "enough" or "'that'll do'') which teaches the dogs to happily break apart and come to you for a treat. After some time, you can also insert a few calm behaviors—sit, down, etc.—to help them calm down before giving the treat.
After some time, a pleasant surprise is that some dogs may learn to self monitor and when things start escalating they automatically break apart to come get their treat!
2) Train Your Dogs to Chill on Mat
An alternative option if you are looking for a longer-lasting time-out is to use a verbal cue such as "chill!" where you redirect the dogs to lie down on their mats where they get a stuffed Kong or some other longer lasting goodie to work on.
3) Capture Calm Play
Clicker training can also help and you can work on capturing calm play. Simply, capture breaks (click/reward them as they happen spontaneously) and shape less intense forms of play. Start clicking when play is at a low level of arousal and use valuable treats. Soon, you may notice that your dogs will start checking in with you every now and then during play.
This article is accurate and true to the best of the author’s knowledge. It is not meant to substitute for diagnosis, prognosis, treatment, prescription, or formal and individualized advice from a veterinary medical professional. Animals exhibiting signs and symptoms of distress should be seen by a veterinarian immediately.
Questions & Answers
Why does one of my dogs keep playing when the other dog wants to stop? Could it be an age difference issue? The one who wants to keep on playing is fourteen-months-old. The other one who did play but stopped is six-years-old.
Yes, age can be a factor and so can different energy levels. At fourteen-months-old, the dog is full of energy and may even be trying to engage in bullying behaviors by forcing the other dog to play.
Make sure your older dog has access to an area where he can get away as needed from the persistent dog and get some well deserved quiet time.Helpful 29
© 2010 Adrienne Janet Farricelli