How to Make a Beautiful Goldfish Pond
On Golden Pond
Great sounds and sights to delight.
What is your favorite pet?
Having a simple water feature in your yard adds such a tranquility but add goldfish to that and stand back in awe! The beauty you can create is only limited by your imagination!
The gurgling water, rocks, flowers, and nightlight (solar is preferable I think) just set off your beautiful fish that are always glad to see you and your guests.
A pond is so much easier than in a tank and the weather can freeze and snow cover their pond and they will be just fine!
Having a goldfish pond is for a fact a pretty big project with a good bit of work and maintenance; so you need to weigh the pros and cons and work out all the planning before you decide. Is it worth the effort? Only you can say.
Depth and Location
To start remember ponds in cooler temperatures need to include areas where the water is at least two feet deep so the pond will not freeze up.
Always use a local pet or fish store to buy your fish rather than a big box store. The fish-store owner has knowledge of fish and knows how to medicate them if they arrive sick, and many goldfish do. They are shipped hundreds to a box and sometimes the shipping times are longer than is good for the fish. If they arrive less than well, they need to stay in the store and be housed in a quarantined and medicated tank. Usually the new fish stay in the store four to seven days before they are sold. If you shop at a reputable store, you know you are getting a healthy fish. The big box stores do not do quarantine and medicate, so you may be buying sick fish…..Goldfish like cool water below 75 degrees Fahrenheit. They can overwinter well beneath ice as long as your pond does not freeze solid.
Your goldfish eat a lot and poop a lot, so they make a mess. Do not overcrowd your pond. I suggest one linear foot of fish per 25 square feet of pond surface.
Do not feed your fish! If you keep your population down, your fish will eat your anacharis (plants for fresh water aquariums) but not as fast as it grows. That way, a thorough yearly cleaning will remove all the organic matter those goldfish leave behind, your water will stay clear and your water chemistry will stay balanced. When you feed goldfish, you increase organic matter and throw your balanced pond out of balance and create lots of maintenance that takes up your weekend relaxation time.
Choose your goldfish well. Keep your pond balanced. Do not feed your fish. Your pond, your fish and you will all be happy. http://www.life123.com/home-garden/landscaping/garden-ponds/choosing-goldfish-for-your-pond.shtml
They surprisingly will survive extremely cold temperatures but they swim to the bottom in winter where temperatures are much warmer so do be sure you allow for that in your plans.
Find the perfect location for your goldfish pond.
You may want to view it from your home; a window or porch etc. for just for the beauty of the pond; though you can’t see the fish.
You have to consider though the sun on your pond which should be for several hours or half the day; although ponds in warmer climates may benefit from more shade to provide cooler cover for your goldfish in the summer heat.
Decide the size of your pond. How big and how deep the pond it should be proportionate to the number, size and type of goldfish you will have.
Smaller ponds less than a 4-foot diameter are easy to build, but get dirty really fast, may not provide enough room or cover for your goldfish and also may become overgrown with plants.
So a little more work in the beginning could actually save you labor and be better for your fish to be healthy.
Decide the shape or form of your pond.
Using a length of rope or string to outline the shape of the pond on the ground as you want it to help you see how the pond will fit into your landscape.
If you have land on a hillside or slight dip it is perfect for your stream as shown in my photos. It is really simple to cut back into the ground and place rocks for the water to flow over and you can hide all the hose and pump works well above the actual pond.
Do you want just goldfish or do you want the koi alone or koi with goldfish? More on this below.
Roll Up Your Sleeves
May be easier than you think.
Keep herons from eating your pond fish
One of the most common predators of our fish is the beautiful, but dreaded by pond keepers, Great Blue Heron (shown above). There are different species of herons scattered around the country, but the most seen around the pond is the Great Blue Heron. This bird is found in most of the contiguous United States. The Great Blue can stand over 4 feet tall with a wingspan of nearly 6 feet. They feed primarily on fish and frogs, which is what makes a residential pond worth a visit….
We have found some effective methods against herons to be leaf netting and the ScareCrow.
Leaf netting may detract from the beauty of a pond, but so can disappearing fish. If you plan on using leaf netting in the fall anyway, why not just leave it over the pond until spring?
The ScareCrow is a motion-activated sprinkler that attaches to your garden hose. When a heron, or anything else, crosses its path, it emits a burst of water, frightening away the would-be predator. These same two methods should be effective for some other predatory birds such as cranes. However, the ScareCrow may not deter birds that swoop down to feed such as owls and kingfishers. An artificial fish can look like an easy target to a preying bird. But when the attack is made, the bird is unable to eat the intended meal and may retreat to find a tasty meal elsewhere…
While these are some of the most common predators, the list could go on. For most, your best options are described above. I have one last note on the ScareCrow. It is a great option for predator control, but winter usage is limited. Since it requires a garden hose, some climates would cause the hose to freeze and break. Cooler climates will require you to put the ScareCrow away in winter months. http://www.watergarden.org/Pond-Info/Pond-Predators
1. Dig the pond using your outline. If you plan to include plants in your pond, which no doubt you will want to do; make places for them as you dig your pond as where you will set these. (I did mine on a bank so I had sort of stair step tables.)
2. Use a level at the top edge of the pond using a 2x4 and carpenter's level. Put the 2x4 across the pond and place the level on top of it. Measure the level of the pond. If needed alter the soil level on one side of the pond until your level is square. Repeat this every 12 inches of the pond’s length.
3. Get your pond prepared for the liner making sure the inside of the pond is free of debris, rocks and roots and such that may tear your liner. Put sand to help smooth out the soil and keep the liner from damage.
4. Next place the liner in the pond. Be sure you have a foot extra of the liner outside the pond dug out. Use just one sheet of material to line your pond so there are no leaks.
5. You are all set now to fill your pond with water. As you do so work out any wrinkles although small ones will flatten with water pressure. If you use tap water, use dechlorinator; to kill chlorine in the tap water.
6. Weigh the liner down all around the outer edge to keep it in place such as rocks or gravel or material of your choice.
7. Around the pond make a dugout to lay your soft hose connecting the pond filter and skimmer. Filtration tackle helps lower the care for your pond by trapping leaves, etc., to help keep the water clean and clear.
8. Now to have proper water flow put your filter and submersible pump just inside the edge of the pond. Connect the tubing and pump to the filter using clamps for tight fit.
9. Plug up your pump to your power source to make sure all piping is tight and leak free and once it is put soil over your piping to hide it. Now let your pump cycle clear the water.
Beauty and Fun for Everyone
Let the family help plan!
- pond filter system
- oxygen supply
- pond liner tubing
- flexible plastic
- water pump
- stainless steel ring clamps(X4)
- healthy bacteria supplement
- shovel and spade
- 2X4 board
- plants and decorations
Now is the fun part of adding all the pretties! Water lilies are gorgeous floating on the water to me and give the fish a place to hide under if they choose to but just use your imagination to add what you like.
Once your water is ready add your goldfish.
Remember to let their container sit in the pond water to adjust them to the pond temperature before setting them free.
I like to put the plastic bag up against plants instead of the wide open for about 20 minutes so they may keep calmer; less afraid in their new adventure!
When you set them free do it gently sideways so they glide in instead of just dumping them in.
Goldfish or Koi?
. Do you know the difference?
We many say we have a goldfish pond when technically we do not for the better fish to have in your pond are the koi. Koi and goldfish are much alike and will even breed but the offspring are sterile. It is very hard to tell the difference in these two fish when they are small. Koi have beautiful colors and patterns and adding new ones all the time.
The best way to tell the two fish apart is by the barbels by the koi’s mouth which the goldfish does not have. Koi can live 100 years or more so if you take good care of them I would call it a good investment. Goldfish cost less than the koi and the larger the fish the more the cost. The last I knew the price ranges are anywhere from $1.50 for goldfish; about half what koi sell for and the larger fish can go for 15 to 20 dollars. Since it will most likely outlive us that is a pretty good deal though.
Jackie Lynnley, Hubpages
Maybe make a goldfish or turtle pond!
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