How to Introduce Dogs: The Best Trainer-Approved Method
Think of the process of introducing dogs like setting up a blind date: Sometimes, the vibes are just right and it's love at the first sniff; other times, you end up with two dogs who don't want anything to do with each other.
Before questioning your matchmaking skills, consider this: As much as dogs are considered “social animals,” we can’t expect them to always be thrilled about every new dog they encounter. That’s a bit like living in a Holly Polly fantasy world filled with only sunshine, rainbows and happy faces!
Just like people, dogs are individuals that come equipped with their individual preferences, histories and behavioral quirks. While some dogs are social butterflies, others prefer to stay in their bubble. And then you have some others who are quite selective over who to consider friend or foe.
We shouldn’t really be surprised about this. Yet, I often see pet parents react with an expression of utter shock when their dog first growls at another dog. I often have to remind people how even we humans aren’t the perfect role models when it comes to social harmony: We go through divorces, endless roommate dramas and moments of "I can't believe somebody took my coffee mug again" in the office.
Rather than being alarmed, it’s good to remember that growling in dogs is often simply dog-speak for “You’re in my personal bubble” or “I’m not comfortable in this situation.”
This “heads-up” gives us the opportunity to take notice and intervene so as to respect the dog’s request for space and take steps to make the process go smoother. This leads us to the big question: What’s the best way to introduce dogs?
Related: Why Is My Dog Aggressive Towards Intact Males?
When we add a new dog, we are disrupting our resident dog’s routines and social structure. It’s important to take steps to make the process smooth.
The Best Way to Introduce Dogs Is Slowly (And Systematically!)
Here’s the scoop: When we rush dog-to-dog introductions, we risk creating stress, anxiety or even a bad experience. Sometimes, the bad experience is what really gets in the way, putting a dent in the process and making future interactions more challenging for both the growler and the “growlee.”
For example, the dog who was growling might perceive the other dog as a threat, triggering future growling episodes, while the dog being growled at may feel more fearful and defensive in future interactions, even if the situation is calmer.
To set up doggy introductions for success, it’s therefore important to have a keen understanding of canine body language and early signs of stress (including the most subtle signs).
Dogs communicate primarily through body language, and if we fail to catch the early signs of things not going too well, that’s when we may end up with that growl or snarl. It’s like going from a dog saying, “I'm not comfortable here,” to saying, "Seriously, back off."
So while a growl works as a great heads-up that informs us that our introduction needs some tweaking, ideally, we want to prevent that growl from happening in the first place, as a growl is often one of the main indications that we have moved too fast through the process.
Become a Pro in Canine Body Language
While dog-to-dog introductions are often quite silent, a lot is happening beneath the surface. A silent dialogue is taking place packed with important messages about how the situation is going. It’s a good idea to be prepared in advance so you know what to look for.
According to a study by Mariti et al. in 2012, many pet parents miss the most subtle visual behavioral signs present during emotional arousal because they’re too focused on the big-ticket items—like barking or gross body movements.
Some warning signs to watch for when introducing dogs may include the following:
- Stiff body posture
- Raised hackles
- Tense mouth
- Frozen stance
- Dilated pupils
- Furrowed brows
- Sustained eye contact
- Changes in breathing
- Weight shifted forward
- Standing tall over the other dog
- Flattened ears
- Cowering
- Tucked tail
- Barking with the teeth exposed
1. The Importance of Meeting in a Neutral Location
Something important to consider when introducing a dog to another dog is the location. You want to pick the location wisely, as dogs may feel more on edge when introduced on their perceived turf. Just like you wouldn’t want a random stranger to be suddenly plopping down on your couch and rummaging through your fridge, your dog doesn’t want that either.
Rather than letting dogs meet at your home or in your yard, let them meet from a safe distance in a neutral, low-stakes location, such as a quiet park (not a dog park!) or some other open area.
This will help lower the risks of any territorial-related aggression, which can be directed towards any intruders (humans or dogs) entering or approaching the dog’s perceived territory.
2. Side-by-Side Walking
Once both dogs have seen each other from a distance in a neutral location, it helps to walk both dogs at a distance from each other, side-by-side. This requires a helper so that each dog has a person walking them. The distance between the dogs may vary based on how comfortable the dogs appear to be.
This type of walking is known as "parallel walking,” and it comes in handy to help the dogs get acquainted with each other, but without too much pressure.
It’s a good idea to praise the dogs for showing interest in each other or for other social signs such as glancing at each other or wagging their tails in a friendly manner.
If there are any signs of tension or aggression, it would be best to not proceed with closer interactions for some time and keep each dog in the home in separated areas.
3. On-Leash Assessment
If the dogs do well on a parallel walk, it may be possible to do an on-leash assessment. This is not a formal meeting; it’s just a brief assessment to see how the dogs do at a closer distance.
You will need to closely monitor body language and postures during this brief encounter.
Related: Dog Aggression: Most Successful Treatment Methods
Avoid forcing the dogs to be in a physical proximity that goes beyond their comfort levels.
4. To Each Their Own
After the brief meeting, both dogs can be walked together home (one dog per handler), where they will be kept separated in the house (each dog should have their own area).
The resident pet should still retain the right to use most of the valued areas of the house as usual (kitchen, living room, bedroom), while the new pet should be confined to a dog-proofed neutral area.
“If you restrict the new pet to a highly valued and preferred area and exclude the other pets from it, you may be provoking anxieties that accompany rehoming on all sides,” explains board-certified veterinary behaviorist Dr. Karen Overall in the book Manual of Clinical Behavioral Medicine for Dogs and Cats.
After spending time in their own areas, the dogs can then be introduced again on the next walk, but in the meantime, steps can be taken to help introduce positive vibes.
5. Scent Swaps
Dogs live in an olfactory world; to help them get better acquainted with each other, I like to rub each dog with a towel and provide each dog the towel carrying the other dogs’ scent, in their own areas.
Curving, where the dog shows his side during an introduction to another dog, allows for a polite meeting.
6. Positive Associations
If there are signs of tension, it may help to form some positive associations among the dogs. I like to place treats on the exchanged towels and feed treats when the dogs hear each other barking or when they happen to glance at each other at a distance during parallel walks or through their baby gates.
Giving treats or feeding the dogs their food when in the presence of each other will help the dogs feel that the situation isn’t so bad after all and that good things happen when they’re calm and in each other's company. Just make sure not to offer treats when the dogs are too close together to prevent tension or squabbles over food.
7. On-Leash Contact
On another parallel walk towards a neutral area, another closer on-leash encounter can be attempted, this time allowing some contact but for a brief period.
What we like to see here are curvy bodies, rather than frontal approaches, the dogs taking some brief breaks (just as in dog play, pauses are refreshing) and low arousal / gentle interactions. Remember to praise the dogs for interacting nicely, and then walk the dogs on a parallel walk home.
A frontal approach may lead to more tension, and the tight leash interferes with natural body language.
8. Off-Leash Contact
If the on-leash contact went well, on another day, it may be possible to introduce the dogs off-leash in a neutral and safely fenced area after the next parallel walk. It’s important to have a plan in place should the dogs end up fighting so as to separate them safely.
Off-leash contact may lead to play. It’s important to be acquainted with the signs of healthy play in dogs. Look for refreshing pauses in play, role reversals and low arousal levels.
Interrupt play if it remains uninterrupted for too long, there are high arousal levels, lots of vertical play happening or any concerning signs. If at any time one or both dogs appear uncomfortable, it’s okay to end the session.
9. Supervised Encounters in the Yard
If you have a yard, it may help to schedule some brief encounters in the yard before proceeding to encounters in the house. Remember to keep any toys or foods out of the way to prevent fights over resources.
As a general rule, you should not progress to leaving the dogs loose in the house together until the dogs appear to be completely comfortable with each other outside.
Trained Cues
Trained cues are important when dogs are introduced to other dogs. A timely cue can help prevent a tense situation from escalating. The catch? These cues need to be trained fluently until they’re second nature so that your dogs can respond reliably when needed.
This is crucial because in the heat of the moment, “sit” shouldn’t turn into “huh?” when things are starting to look tense.
Safety Is Always a Top Priority
When introducing two dogs, the most important thing to consider is safety. There are always risks that the encounters may not go well, and you may also be at risk for a redirected bite if you attempt to separate two dogs who are fighting or about to fight.
Dogs are known to often fight over resources such as food, toys, bones and beds. Fights may also occur in highly arousing situations, such as when entering or exiting the home, through tight spaces and when greeting owners or receiving owner attention.
Also consider certain disparities in size, age or energy level. A small dog is particularly at risk when introduced to a larger dog. An older dog may struggle with a boisterous puppy. A calm dog may find an energetic dog too much to cope with. Draining some energy prior to introductions may lead to calmer greetings. Close supervision is always necessary.
Work With a Professional
When it comes to introducing dogs, slow and steady wins the race. If you notice a lack of progress despite your efforts, or you start seeing signs of fear or aggression, please play it safe and consult with a dog behavior professional who can help you through the process.
"Dog training and behavior modification, particularly for challenges involving potential aggression (e.g., lunging, barking, growling, snapping, or biting), require in-person guidance from a qualified behavior professional. Online articles are for educational purposes only and do not replace personalized, professional intervention. By using this information, you accept full responsibility for your dog’s actions and waive any liability claims related to their behavior. If your dog shows concerning behaviors, seek professional help immediately to ensure safety and proper care."
References
- Characteristics, treatment, and outcome of 99 cases of aggression between dogs. Sherman CK, Reisner IR, Taliaferro LA, Houpt KA. Appl Anim Behavior Sci 47:91-108, 1996. Turid Rugaas (2006).
- On Talking Terms With Dogs: Calming Signals, 2nd ed. Dogwise publishing, Wenatchee, WA.
- Mariti, Chiara & Falaschi, C. & Zilocchi, Marcella & Carlone, Beatrice & Gazzano, Angelo. (2014). Analysis of calming signals in domestic dogs: Are they signals and are they calming?. Journal of Veterinary Behavior: Clinical Applications and Research.
- Mariti, C., Falaschi, C., Zilocchi, M., Fatjó, J., Sighieri, C., Ogi, A., & Gazzano, A. (2017). Analysis of the intraspecific visual communication in the domestic dog (Canis familiaris): A pilot study on the case of calming signals. Journal of Veterinary Behavior: Clinical Applications and Research, 18, 49–55.
- Shaw JK, Martin DA (editors). Canine and Feline Behavior for Veterinary Technicians and Nurses. Wiley-Blackwell, 2014.
- Karen L Overall, Manual of Clinical Behavioral Medicine for Dogs and Cats; Edition: 1st edition.
